Winter'21
RUNWAY – Men
Brunello Cucinelli
Cucinelli impresses again with its philosophy of exquisitely fabricated and conservatively expressive menswear. Pieces in the collection are endlessly mix-and-matchable: Once you acquire a Cucinelli garment, you can be lost forever in the pleasurable urge to get more.
Emporio Armani
Creative director Silvestre’s opening look for Emporio Armani mixed a collarless long jacket and wide pant in checked mixed linen to establish the theme of both silhouette and weight. The elastic moves of choreographer twin brothers Laurent and Larry Bourgeois highlighted the flexibility afforded despite the apparent structure of the the jackets.
Alexander McQueen
Degrade color divisions, bold ribbon details, and layered, opaque prints were carried over from resort collection of Alexander McQueen to menswear. The collection was predominantly made of upcycled overstock fabrics.
Fendi
RUNWAY – Women
Giambattista Valli
“Couture is not about decoration. Couture is about volumes. When you sketch ready-to-wear, you have to be a designer. When you create haute couture, you have to be a sculptor. It’s the difference between building a space and decorating it.” Giambattista Valli
Dior
“We decided to film a story about this girl who goes inside a castle. It’s a labyrinth which represents an interior trip. When she meets each of the figures, she has to reach a decision about her life. And on the other hand, she meets aspects of her own personality and learns not to be scared of the future.” Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri
Givenchy
Clare Waight Keller’s spring haute couture collection for Givenchy was rooted in her recollections of visiting the garden rooms planted at Sissinghurst Castle by Vita Sackville-West and by reading the love letters between Sackville-West and Virginia Woolf.
Chanel
Leave it to Chanel creative director Virginie Viard to make the show at the Grand Palais feel intimate. “I knew we couldn’t organize a big show, that we would have to invent something else, so I came up with the idea of a small cortege,” Viard explained in the show notes. “Like a family celebration, a wedding.” Dressed in all the signature details of Chanel including feathers, camellias, embroidery, and lace, the models walked underneath arches decorated with fresh flowers.
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